Safety first. Everything below is an external check any owner can safely do. Do not open a battery pack, work on exposed wiring, or bypass a safety cut-out. If a product is hot, smoking, swollen or physically damaged, stop using it and call us.
"Not charging" covers several different situations, and separating them is most of the diagnosis.
No light at all when connected
This points upstream of the battery. Test the outlet with something else. Inspect the charger cable end to end, paying attention to where it meets the plug and where it meets the connector — those are the two places cables fail. If you use a wall dock, try charging directly with the charger instead to take the dock out of the equation.
Light comes on but runtime is still short
This is a battery-capacity story rather than a charging fault. Lithium cells lose usable capacity with age and cycles. A machine that once ran 40 minutes and now manages eight is behaving normally for a worn battery — it is just no longer useful.
Charges, then drops very quickly under load
A battery can show a full charge and still collapse the moment real current is drawn, particularly on max power mode. That is also a capacity symptom.
Temperature
Charging is inhibited when a battery is too cold or too warm. Machines stored in garages, sheds, cars or conservatories run into this regularly. Bring it indoors, leave it a few hours, and try again before concluding anything.
After a long period unused
A battery left fully flat for months may need a longer-than-usual period on charge before it responds. Give it a full uninterrupted charge cycle rather than checking after ten minutes.
What we would ask you on a call
- What exactly the lights do when you connect it
- How long it runs now, versus when it was new
- Where it has been stored
- Whether it behaves differently on different power modes
- How old the machine is
Still stuck?
Call a product specialist and describe what yours is doing.